What wears out and why
Homes built in the 1950s and early 60s across North Orange County were often plumbed with galvanized steel supply pipe. Galvanized corrodes from the inside: rust and scale build up until the opening narrows, pressure drops, and eventually a joint or thin spot leaks. Later homes more often used copper, which lasts well but can develop pinholes after decades of hard water.
The water service line, the pipe from the meter to the house, ages too. Older service lines may be galvanized or copper running under lawns, walks and driveways, and tree roots or shifting soil can stress them. A leak there often shows up as a meter that keeps moving even with the house shutoff closed.
Signs it may be time
- Brown or rusty water, especially after the water sits overnight
- Low pressure at several fixtures, not just one aerator
- Pressure that drops sharply when two fixtures run
- Repeat pinhole leaks in different places
- More than one slab leak
- Visible galvanized pipe at the water heater or hose bibs
PEX or copper for the new lines
Both are common choices. Your plumber should explain why they recommend one for your house.
PEX
- Flexible, fewer fittings, easier to route through attics and walls
- Often less wall opening needed
- Resists scale buildup
- Must be kept out of sunlight and installed to manufacturer requirements
Copper
- Long track record in Southern California homes
- Rigid, more fittings and soldered joints
- Can develop pinholes with aggressive water over time
- Often more labor-intensive to install
How a whole-house repipe usually unfolds
- Planning
- Walkthrough, decide on material, map the new route through attic and walls, and confirm permit requirements with the city.
- Prep
- Furniture moved away from walls, floors and belongings covered.
- Install
- Small openings are cut at fixtures and along the route, new lines are run, and fixtures are reconnected. Water is typically off for parts of the work.
- Test and inspect
- The new system is pressure tested and inspected if a permit applies.
- Patch
- Drywall openings are closed and finished, either by the plumber or a separate contractor; ask which.
Repipe or service line?
| Problem | Likely scope |
|---|---|
| Meter moves with the house shutoff closed | Water service line from meter to house |
| Rusty water and low pressure inside | Whole-house supply repipe |
| Repeated slab leaks | Reroute or repipe of under-slab lines |
| One corroded section near the water heater | Partial replacement may be enough |
What drives the cost
- House size and layout
- Number of bathrooms, fixtures and the length of runs.
- Material
- PEX and copper differ in material and labor.
- Access
- Attic space, single-story versus two-story, finished ceilings.
- Patching
- Drywall and paint may or may not be included.
- Service line
- Length, depth and what sits on top of the yard line.
Questions to ask before a repipe
- Which material do you recommend for my house, and why?
- How long will the water be off each day?
- Is drywall patching included, and to what finish?
- Will you pull the permit and arrange inspection?
- Will you also replace the main shutoff and check the pressure regulator?
Common questions
Can I live in the house during a repipe?
Many people do. Water is usually off for parts of each day, so ask the plumber to lay out the schedule.
Is rusty water dangerous?
Rusty water is mainly a sign of corroding pipe. For questions about water quality, check with the water utility that serves your address.
Who owns the water service line?
Generally the meter and the utility side belong to the utility, and the line from the meter to the house belongs to the property owner. Confirm with your water utility.
General information for North Orange County, not a quote or professional advice. In an emergency, call 911.