Guides to the plumbing in a newer house
One part per guide: how it works, how it fails, what you can check yourself and what to ask a licensed plumber. Read them before you call us, or before you call anyone.
- Tankless water heater error codes and what they usually mean
An error code is the heater telling you which system stopped it. Some causes are simple, like a closed valve or a clogged inlet screen; others involve gas, venting or ignition and belong to a licensed plumber.
- Descaling a tankless water heater in hard water
Fullerton's water is hard, and the minerals collect inside a tankless heat exchanger. Regular flushing on the manufacturer's schedule keeps the unit heating evenly and helps it avoid overheat codes.
- Replacing a water heater: tank or tankless?
Neither type is right for every house. The decision turns on how your household uses hot water, what gas line and venting you already have, and how much upkeep you are willing to do in hard water.
- Gas supply and venting for a tankless water heater
A gas tankless heater burns a lot of gas for short bursts and pushes its exhaust out through its own vent. Both have to be right for the unit to run safely and reliably.
- High water pressure and the pressure-reducing valve
A pressure-reducing valve keeps street pressure from reaching your fixtures. When it wears out, pressure creeps up quietly and starts stressing faucets, toilets, PEX joints and the water heater.
- A dripping relief valve and thermal expansion
The temperature-and-pressure relief valve is a safety device. If it drips, it is responding to something, often thermal expansion, and it should never be capped or plugged.
- Finding every water shutoff in your home
The few minutes it takes to locate and test your shutoffs pay off the first time something leaks. Newer homes often have more isolation points than older ones, but they still have to be found.
- Dripping cartridge faucets: repair or replace
Most faucets in newer homes use a cartridge to control flow and temperature. A drip or stiff handle usually means the cartridge or its seals are worn, and the right replacement part depends on the brand.
- A running toilet: finding and fixing the cause
A toilet that runs or refills on its own is leaking water from the tank into the bowl or out the overflow. The cause is almost always one of a few tank parts, and a dye test tells you which.
- Shower temperature problems and the mixing valve
Temperature swings in the shower can come from the valve behind the wall, the water heater, or both. Sorting out which one is at fault saves opening a wall you did not need to.
- Finding a hidden leak behind a high water bill
A bill that jumps without a change in habits often means water is going somewhere you cannot see. Your meter can confirm it in minutes, and process of elimination narrows down where.
- Low flow at one faucet or shower
When only one fixture is weak, the cause is usually at or near that fixture. Hard water scale on aerators and shower heads is the most common culprit, and it is often a simple clean.
- Water heater strapping, permits and code basics
In California, water heaters must be braced against earthquakes, and replacing one usually means a permit. Knowing the basics helps you read a quote and spot an install that cuts corners.
- Hard water: softeners, filters and scale control
Fullerton's water is hard, and the minerals show up on fixtures and inside water heaters. Treatment can help, but each option does something different and needs its own upkeep.
- Kitchen sink and garbage disposal clogs
Newer homes have plastic drain lines and modern disposals, but kitchens still clog. Most problems start in the trap or the disposal, and a few simple checks show whether it goes deeper.