Measure before you shop
Measure the rough-in
Measure from the finished wall behind the toilet, not the baseboard, to the center of the bolt caps at the base. That distance is the rough-in, and the new toilet must match it.
Check side clearance
Measure from the center of the bolts to the nearest wall, cabinet or tub on each side so the new bowl will not crowd them.
Measure the front space
Measure from the front of the current bowl to the nearest obstruction, such as a door or vanity. An elongated bowl sticks out further than a round one.
Note the supply location
Note where the shutoff valve sits. Some one-piece and skirted toilets have shapes that need the valve in a particular spot.
Common choices
| Choice | Options | Things to consider |
|---|---|---|
| Bowl shape | Round or elongated | Round saves space; elongated is often preferred for comfort |
| Bowl height | Standard or comfort height | Taller bowls can be easier for many adults; standard may suit children |
| Construction | Two-piece or one-piece | One-piece has no tank-to-bowl joint; two-piece parts are often easier to find |
| Base style | Exposed trapway or skirted | Skirted bases are easier to wipe but can make installation more involved |
| Flush type | Single or dual flush | Dual flush gives a smaller option for liquid waste |
Replace these while the old toilet is out
The water is already off and the old toilet is already up, so this is the easiest time.
- A new wax ring or wax-free seal and new closet bolts, always.
- The supply line, especially if it is old or not braided.
- The shutoff valve, if it is stiff, crusted or dripping.
- Any damaged section of the flange, before the new toilet is set.
- The floor around the drain, if it is stained or soft.
Older Fullerton bathrooms
Homes built in the 1950s through the 1970s often have small bathrooms where every inch around the toilet counts. An elongated bowl that looks great in a showroom can block a swinging door or crowd a vanity, so the front clearance measurement matters as much as the rough-in.
Older homes also sometimes have flanges that have corroded or sit at an odd height after decades of flooring changes. A plumber setting the new toilet should look at the flange before the new seal goes on rather than discovering a problem after the toilet is bolted down.
Questions to ask the installer
- Does this toilet fit my rough-in and clearances?
- Will you inspect the flange and replace the shutoff valve or supply line if needed?
- How will you dispose of the old toilet?
- Do I need a permit for this work? Should I check with the city?
- What is the written price, and does it change if the flange needs repair?
Common questions
What if my rough-in is an unusual size?
Toilets are made for several rough-in sizes. Measure carefully and look for a model that matches rather than forcing a standard one to fit.
Is a one-piece toilet better?
It has no tank-to-bowl joint to leak and is easier to clean, but it is heavier and parts may be more specific to the model.
Do I need to replace the shutoff valve with a new toilet?
Not always, but it is worth doing if the valve is old, stiff or shows any leaking, since the water is already off.
General information for Fullerton, not a quote or professional advice. In an emergency, call 911.