Water on the garage floor next to the heater can feel like an emergency, and sometimes it is. Before anyone talks about a new heater, though, work out where the water is actually coming from. A water heater has several places that can leak: the cold inlet and hot outlet connections on top, the temperature and pressure relief valve and its discharge pipe, the drain valve near the bottom, and the steel tank itself.
Not all water near a heater comes from the heater. In many Orange tract homes the heater shares a garage corner or a closet with the laundry hookups, the water softener or a condensate line from the furnace or air conditioner. Wipe everything dry, then watch for where fresh water shows up first.
Shut it down safely
Do these before you investigate, in this order.
- Check for gas smell.If you smell gas or rotten eggs, leave the house and call 911 or SoCalGas from outside. Do not operate switches or the heater.
- Close the cold-water valve.It is on the cold pipe going into the top of the tank. If it is stuck or missing, close the main water shutoff for the house.
- Turn off the energy.Set a gas control knob to Off or Pilot, or switch off the breaker for an electric heater. An electric heater that runs with an empty tank can burn out its elements.
- Protect the area.Move boxes and anything electrical away from the water, and keep children and pets clear. Tank water can be hot enough to scald.
- Document it.Photograph the leak, the floor and the rating plate. Those pictures help a plumber judge whether the job is a repair or a replacement.
Where the leak is and what it usually means
| Where the water appears | Common cause | Usual outcome |
|---|---|---|
| Top of the tank, at the pipes | Loose or corroded connector, worn nipple, condensation on cold pipes | Often repairable |
| Relief valve or its discharge pipe | Worn valve, or excess temperature or pressure | Valve replacement or pressure correction |
| Drain valve near the bottom | Valve not fully closed or a worn plastic valve | Often repairable |
| Under the tank, from the base or jacket seam | Internal tank corrosion | Replacement |
| Around a tankless unit | Fitting, pressure relief valve or heat exchanger leak | Depends on the part |
Repair or replace after a leak
- IfWater is coming from a threaded fitting, flex connector or drain valveAsk about replacing that part. The tank itself may be sound.
- IfThe relief valve is the sourceHave the valve and the household water pressure checked before replacing anything else.
- IfThe water is coming from the tank body, and the jacket or base is rustedPlan for a replacement, with strapping and venting brought up to current requirements.
- IfYou can't tell where it's coming fromKeep the water off and let a plumber trace it with the tank dried off.
Questions to ask the plumber
- Where exactly is the leak, and how did you confirm it?
- Is the tank itself leaking, or a part that can be replaced?
- If it's a repair, what is the condition of the rest of the heater?
- If it's a replacement, does the estimate include strapping, venting, a relief valve discharge line and any permit?
- Can I see your CSLB license number so I can check it at cslb.ca.gov?
Common questions
Can I keep using a water heater that is leaking a little?
If the drip is from a fitting, a plumber may be able to fix it quickly. If it's from the tank body, the leak will usually get worse, so keep the cold supply off until it's assessed.
Is a puddle under the heater always the heater's fault?
No. Furnace or AC condensate lines, a water softener or laundry hookups nearby can leave water there too. Dry the area and watch where water reappears.
Should I drain the tank myself?
Shutting off the water and the energy is enough to make it safe. Draining hot water through a hose can scald, and an old drain valve can break. It's usually best left to the plumber.
General information for Orange, not a quote or professional advice. In an emergency, call 911.