What you probably have
Homes built in Fullerton during the 1950s through the 1970s typically have copper or galvanized steel supply lines. Galvanized pipe is steel coated with zinc; once the coating wears, the steel rusts from the inside, narrowing the pipe and shedding rust into the water. Copper lasts well in many conditions but can develop pinhole leaks or wear at joints and where it contacts the slab.
Over the years, many houses have been repaired piece by piece, so it is common to find galvanized, copper and newer plastic pipe in the same home. A plumber can identify what you have by looking at exposed pipe at the water heater, under sinks and where the main enters the house.
Signs repiping may be worth discussing
- Brown or rusty water, especially after the lines sit overnight
- Low pressure throughout the house that has worsened over years
- More than one leak in the supply lines in a short period
- Visible corrosion, flaking or green crust on exposed pipe
- A previous slab leak on lines of the same age
- Plans to remodel kitchens or bathrooms where walls will be open anyway
Copper or PEX?
Both are widely used for repiping. Your plumber's recommendation should consider your house, not just preference.
Copper
- Long track record in homes
- Rigid pipe soldered or press-fitted at joints
- Can be more labor-intensive to route through finished walls
- Resistant to heat and UV exposure
PEX
- Flexible plastic tubing that bends around obstacles
- Fewer joints, often fewer wall openings
- Must be protected from sunlight and installed per manufacturer specs
- Fittings and tools vary by system
What a whole-house repipe often looks like
- Planning
- Walkthrough, route planning through attic and walls, written scope, and permit questions for the city.
- Preparation
- Furniture moved, floors protected, and access openings marked.
- New lines run
- New supply pipe is run while the old system stays in service as long as possible.
- Cutover
- Water is shut off briefly while fixtures are connected to the new lines.
- Testing and inspection
- Pressure test, any city inspection, then wall patching.
What drives the scope
| Factor | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Number of fixtures and bathrooms | More connections and longer runs |
| Attic access | Easier routing usually means fewer wall openings |
| Pipe material chosen | Labor and fittings differ |
| Drywall and paint repair | Confirm whether it is included or separate |
| Partial versus whole house | Partial work leaves older sections in place |
Questions to ask before committing
- Which parts of my system are galvanized, copper or plastic now?
- Would a partial repipe solve the problem, or will the rest fail soon?
- How many wall and ceiling openings do you expect, and who patches them?
- How long will we be without water each day?
- Will you pull a permit, and is a city inspection required? Check with the city if unsure.
Common questions
Do I have to repipe the whole house at once?
Not always. Some homeowners replace the worst sections first. A plumber can explain the trade-offs between partial and whole-house work for your layout.
Will repiping fix rusty water?
If the rust comes from your galvanized supply lines, replacing them usually solves it. Rust only on the hot side may point to the water heater instead.
Does repiping include the sewer line?
No. Repiping usually refers to the water supply lines. Drain and sewer lines are a separate system with their own inspection and repair options.
General information for Golden Hills, not a quote or professional advice. In an emergency, call 911.