Shut it down safely
- Check for a gas smell first.If you smell gas near the heater, leave the house and call 911 or SoCalGas from outside. Do not touch the controls.
- Close the cold-water supply.The valve is on the cold line entering the top of the tank. Turn it clockwise, or a quarter turn for a lever.
- Turn off the energy source.On a gas unit, set the gas control to off. On an electric unit, switch off its breaker.
- Let it cool.Tank water can scald. Do not open the drain valve or touch fittings until the water has had time to cool.
- Contain the water.Move stored items in the garage away from the heater and use towels or a wet vacuum on clean water only.
Where the water is coming from
| Leak location | What it may mean | Urgency |
|---|---|---|
| Tank body or bottom seam | Inner tank has corroded through; not repairable | Replace soon; keep water and energy off |
| Temperature and pressure relief valve | Valve failing, or pressure or temperature is too high | Call a plumber; do not cap or plug the valve |
| Cold or hot connections on top | Loose or corroded fitting or flex line | Often repairable |
| Drain valve near the bottom | Valve not seated or worn | Often repairable |
| Puddle with no visible drip | Condensation, or a nearby line leaking | Have the source confirmed |
Hard water and tank life in Brea
North Orange County water tends to be hard, a mix of local groundwater and imported water, and the minerals settle as sediment at the bottom of a tank. Over years that layer insulates the water from the burner, makes the heater work harder and can contribute to rumbling, popping and eventually corrosion.
When the inner tank itself is leaking, the heater cannot be repaired. Fittings, valves and connectors can. A licensed plumber can tell you which you have, and roughly how old the unit is from its label.
Repair or replace
Usually repairable
- Leaking flex connector on the hot or cold line
- Worn drain valve
- Faulty relief valve on an otherwise sound tank
- Loose fitting at the top of the tank
Usually means replacement
- Water coming from the tank body or seams
- Rust-colored water from the hot side only, with a leak
- Heater near the end of its expected life with repeated problems
- Damage that makes the unit unsafe to run
What shapes the cost
- Tank size and fuel type, and whether you stay with the same type.
- Venting, gas line or electrical changes a new unit needs.
- Strapping, drain pan and code-required parts.
- Access, such as a closet or attic installation.
- Haul-away of the old unit and any after-hours charge.
Questions for the plumber
- Is the tank leaking, or is it a fitting I can have repaired?
- How old is this unit?
- Will the replacement be strapped and permitted?
- Does my venting or gas line need changes for a new unit?
- What is your CSLB license number?
Common questions
- Can I keep using a leaking water heater?
- If the tank itself is leaking, keep it off. A leak can worsen suddenly. A small fitting drip may be safe to leave off overnight until a plumber looks at it.
- Why is my relief valve dripping?
- It may be failing, or pressure or temperature is too high. Never cap it. Have a licensed plumber check it.
- Should I switch to tankless?
- It is an option, but a tankless unit often needs gas line, venting or electrical changes. That is a planned project more than an emergency swap.
General information for Brea, not a quote or professional advice. In an emergency, call 911.